I have many favorite surf breaks here in town, but my all time favorite is Rincon – also known as the “Queen of the Coast.” I usually surf Rincon at least three times a week, even when it is small. It is the best when it is about head-high to double over-head. On those bigger days, I like to surf it on the low tide in the Cove because the wave has more power and it is much more hollow. There are three main breaks at Rincon, starting with the very top called “Backside,” which can be a very fun left in the summer during south swells. Then comes the “River Mouth,” which is usually the biggest in terms of wave size. Lastly comes the “Cove,” which is the best part of Rincon due to the length and shape of the wave – offering a beautiful tube section. On a really good day, you can catch a wave from the top through the River Mouth and all the way down into the Cove. Unfortunately, Rincon is also the most crowded wave locally, which makes it very competitive, but once you become acquainted with all of the locals it is much easier to get waves.
I do not only surf while I’m at Rincon. For example, when there is no swell, I like to go spearfish and free dive for lobster out in the River Mouth. Occasionally my friends and I will spear a Cabezon or a Calico, but usually we only get Perch, which are not that good tasting. My friend, Chet, lives on Rincon Point and owns a sweet little dingy. We usually take that out when we spearfish and anchor it, while we all free dive off of it. It is nice to have the dingy out there because sometimes I need to take a breather, or need somewhere to put the fish. After all of us are back on the dingy, we will come in and drag the boat up onto the sand where the water can’t take it, and walk back to Chet’s to grill the fish and eat fish tacos.
A typical day for me when there is a big swell at Rincon is both fun and exhausting. I will wake up early in the morning and drive to Rincon to check it. The winter mornings are often very cold, but when the waves are firing, I’m driven to put on my usually wet, and sandy wetsuit. I almost always paddle out at the River Mouth and surf Rincon top to bottom with all of my friends for about three hours. Afterwards, I’ll come in and meet my friends for a late breakfast somewhere in Carp. After we eat, we all relax for a little and reflect on our morning session. Then, we usually paddle back out in the afternoon or early evening and surf until dark. I often drive home in my wetsuit and go straight to the hot tub, then shower, and devour one of my mom’s awesome dinners. At that point, I’m usually ready to fall asleep very early due to all of the paddling. After all, I need the rest in order to repeat the same process again the next day!
I can’t wait for the next swell!