Weekend Surf

This weekend I went surfing with my dad at rincon.  On Saturday morning, my dad woke me up wanting to surf.  I told him that the waves were flat, but he insisted that we went anyway.  We decided to take some weird boards down to mess around on.  I brought my 5’4 wizard sleeve Channel Islands model.  Instead of having three fins in it, I put to regular fins in the outer boxes and put a nub fin in the back fin box.  My dad rode his 7’0 progressive model shaped by Dave Johnson. After we packed the boards in the truck we started our mission down to rincon.  On the way down, we talked about some possible boats to consider buying and listened to Neil Young.  It took about 15 minutes to get down to rincon.  We pulled up to rincon and saw there was a little south wind on it, but there were little waves so we decided to put our wetsuits on.  We made our way to the beach and paddled out.  The water was cold and the wind began to pick up, but we kept surfing.  After about twenty minutes of surfing I saw my buddy Jace walking up the beach.  It was the first time I surfed the Wizard Sleeve with a nub fin, so I did not have a great session.  My dad, Jace, and I all talked stories in the water and caught a couple of waves.  Jace had just gotten back from Panama where the water is warm and the waves are insane, so he was a little bummed to go from perfect waves and warm water, to windy, cold, and small waves.  My dad was having a little trouble due to the small waves, so he caught his last wave and went in.  Jace and I realized the wind was picking up and the waves were getting smaller, so we both caught a couple more waves and made our way in.  The weather was extremely cold so my dad and I decided to wait until we got home to take our wetsuits off, that way we could take a warm jacuzi.

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A huge swell that hit the Backside of rincon, creating lefts.

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